All plant guides

Double Japanese Kerria (Kerria japonica 'Pleniflora') — reference photo

Shrubs · Other Families

Double Japanese Kerria

Kerria japonica 'Pleniflora'

In USDA zones 7b–8a around Raleigh, Durham, and Cary, Double Japanese Kerria is a shrub used in Triangle yards when mature size, sun, and drainage fit the bed. Piedmont clay rewards a wide planting hole, a slightly high crown, and steady first-season water. Fall planting is the usual window here; water through the first summer no matter the calendar.

Wholesale plant reference

Add to plant request

Choose a container size to add this plant to your request. We confirm pricing and live stock before invoicing.

Key facts for the Triangle

Botanical name
Kerria japonica 'Pleniflora'
Common name
Double Japanese Kerria
Plant type
Shrubs
Group
Other Families
Hardiness here
USDA 7b–8a (Raleigh–Durham Triangle)
Light
Match the site; confirm hours of direct sun
Water
Deep, consistent water while establishing
Soil
Well-drained
Leaf habit
See overview
Best planting window
Fall (October–November) in the Piedmont; spring after frost as backup

Overview

Double Japanese Kerria is a shrubs selected for landscape use where its mature habit, ornamental traits, and site preferences fit the planting area.

Common questions

Is Double Japanese Kerria a good plant for Raleigh and the Triangle?

Yes—when the site matches its light and drainage needs. Double Japanese Kerria is used in Raleigh, Durham, and Cary landscapes in USDA zones 7b–8a. Confirm mature width, overhead wires, and how wet the Piedmont clay stays after storms before you plant.

When should I plant Double Japanese Kerria in North Carolina?

Fall (October–November) is the safest window for Double Japanese Kerria in the Piedmont: soil is still warm, air is cooler, and roots can grow before summer. Spring after the last frost works if you can water deeply through the first hot season.

Will Double Japanese Kerria grow in Piedmont clay?

It can, with careful planting: wide hole, crown slightly above grade, and no water sitting on the root flare. Heavy, poorly drained clay is the usual failure mode—not summer heat alone.